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A drum trigger is a 'piezo transducer'. Most of the $30 to $40 triggers you buy are: The PT with a jack attached, to accept 1/4" or your choice, dipped in rubber or whatever, is what you pay for. A cheap DIY method is to solder the jack to PT, (allow about 3" total) attach to drum (about an inch away) with double tape (thick kind), neatly smear silicon over trigger and where wire attaches to it. (use toothpick or something to make it only 1/16" to 1/8" thick, mainly on edges, and wire) Locally I pay about $3 for trigger (sometimes have to remove it from snap together plastic encasement) at Radio Shack. Jack is about $2 for a good one (not usually what you get with manufactured triggers) Clear Silicon can be had in a small tube, that doesn't require a gun for $3. This is good for many quick repairs on drum kit. On the road extra heads had trigger mounted in advance, the best way is to have the head somewhat tensioned before application, and wait full 24 hours before returning head to box. Mount jack on side of drum, (in between lugs, keeping around nodal point, so as to not affect it much) so wire doesn't touch rim. Trigger last a long time, (indefinitely) if you don't hit it or pull the wire out. Toms above 12" could use shell mount triggers. (a much longer story) Good basses can use shell mount, though, I suggest head mount. If you're using it on something ancient like Linn drum add $3 potentiometer (gain adjustment) to rig.

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